Blossomed Anew
February 4, 2010
Despite the influx of taco joints and pork-saturated dishes flooding restaurants these days, there is still a place for those seeking respite from animal proteins. Situated on the restaurant-heavy First Avenue, between East 79th and 80th streets, Café Blossom recently opened up its third location at what used to be a chicken shop (Eastside Poultry Inc., which moved to 1564 Second Ave.). Now, the food is all vegan, all the time. [Read more]
Plus-Size Barbecue
January 20, 2010
What with the wildly popular Big Apple Barbecue Block Party in Madison Square Park each summer, and relatively new barbecue joints in nearly every neighborhood, barbecue joins burgers and Vietnamese banh mi sandwiches at the top of New York City’s most esteemed foods. And to think that a mere decade ago there were only three or four restaurants serving barbecue in Manhattan. Due to the city’s strict smoke emission regulations, starting a barbecue restaurant is a dicey—and pricey—prospect. It took the venerable Danny Meyer a good year to get Blue Smoke right. [Read more]
What’s Cooking
January 8, 2010
A post-holiday hunger pang? I’d just licked off the last Panettone crumb, finished all remnants of the Alaskan wild-caught smoked salmon and given away the dark (fair trade, of course) chocolate terrine. Really, I was ready to re-join Weight Watchers and swear off lardo.
But as I contemplated the headlines, the “For Rent” signs all over the city and my empty fridge, I decided we could all use some heart-warming news. So for you, I cooked up a sampling of great culinary adventures. After all, if we’re supposed to eat less, it might as well be the most succulent fare in New York City. [Read more]
The Modern Mexican
December 23, 2009
The menu at Cascabel says, “Eat, Drink, Love Tacos.” And this is exactly what you will do at this new taqueria.
With the sudden boom in places dishing up Mexican street food, it’s easy to get overwhelmed by new-fangled taco combinations and attention-grabbing slogans. Cascabel is also a bit gimmicky, as it’s completely decked out in lucha libre (the stylish Mexican wrestlers) icons. From the figurines behind the counter to wood block prints by Brooklyn designer Ulla Florholmen and two large wrestlers painted on the wall, there is no lack of kitsch in this small laid-back café. [Read more]
Fork Meets Pork
December 9, 2009
When you enter Accademia di Vino, it is like stepping into the coziest Italian wine cellar that, just for a moment, feels as if it’s all yours. Since the restaurant boasts an 800-bottle collection, you can never run out of options. And a book-like wine list highlights bottles from each region of Italy, broken down by type, color and area. It reads like a well-loved novel and includes a glossary of grape varieties.
After careful deliberation, we chose a bottle of the Eugenio Bocchino Barbera d’Alba ($47), a full and meaty wine that worked swimmingly with the heady Italian fare Accademia di Vino offers. [Read more]
Chowder House Ahoy
December 3, 2009
As I’ve written before, given the tens of thousands of hungry people who come to the Lincoln Center area, it astounds me that there aren’t more really good restaurants there. Yes, Jean Georges is great, but it’s a bit pricey for most people; ditto A Voce, Per Se, Masa and Picholine. But the clever forces behind the brand-new Ed’s Chowder House devised a formula that allows them to serve first-class seafood dishes at affordable prices. As a result, they’ve hit the ground running. [Read more]
Peace Out
November 19, 2009
A dining experience can be many things, but rarely does it prove comical by nature. I don’t mean rolling on the floor laughing because your waiter is really a comedian or the counter person does improv, but the kind of humor one looks back on with a groan of disbelief, as if to say, “Did that really happen?” [Read more]
Drop Anchor at Galway Hooker
November 11, 2009
I’m a big fan of the Emerald Isle, from the accents to the wool to the love of beer. When I heard about an Irish Pub just east of Macy’s, I wanted to see if Galway Hooker was more mediocre Blarney Stone, or if the place could hold its own against the city’s many Irish spots. The name, incidentally, has nothing to do with the oldest profession, but instead refers to a sailing boat used in Galway, Ireland. [Read more]
Big Digs for Littlenecks
November 4, 2009
Oceana has moved from its demure and staid ocean-liner stateroom space on East 54th Street to the imposing and comparatively enormous space just off Rockefeller Center. Not since the relocation of Aquavit in 2005 has such a dramatic transformation of a restaurant occurred in Manhattan.
Proud owners Paul McLaughlin and the Livanos family have obviously spared no expense in preparing Oceana’s new incarnation. Opened just in mid-September, the restaurant offers an unusually wide array of dining options. [Read more]
Bottoms Up
October 29, 2009
Upper East Siders, let’s face it: we could stand for a little more sexy in the neighborhood, especially that of the Latin persuasion. At least that’s what the brothers behind Astoria’s El Boqueron tapas bar thought when they opened El Porrón, on First Avenue. Since alcohol is arguably sexier than food, the dimly lit space leads with an airy bar area that accounts for almost half the restaurant. The long bar and high tables, where many patrons choose to dine, are adorned in dark wood and cool Spanish tile. They even named the establishment after a large glass pitcher with a thin spout that allows you to pour the wine right into your mouth. [Read more]
