Quiche as Antidote to Chaos
The painters had arrived with their ladders, buckets and loud radio music. Escaping the chaos, I needed a place where I could sit and have a simple dish that would set my skewed day to rights.
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From Lowly Lentils to Tasty Tea Cakes
Only in the cuisines of Southern India and Gujarat in the west have I seen the sometimes leaden lentil transformed into something light and ethereal. Often used as the meat substitute in unpalatable veggie burgers, lentils at Indian vegetarian restaurant Bhojan form the floury foundation for delicate dumplings and fluffy teacakes.
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Fond of this ‘Fonda’
“Fonda” means “inn,” which is funny since you can barely wiggle your way in to this tiny taqueria with its bright green walls and thumping Mexican music. Yet it displays a largesse befitting a real fonda. When I order my $3.75 taco al pastor, a metal bowl of chips arrives along with three fresh salsas—tomatillo, dried chile and, best of all, a bright green cilantro mixture enlivened with chopped avocado. I dare you to refrain from eating not only one bowl of chips but also from asking for another. These deep-fried tortilla triangles are head and shoulders above the usual Tostitos clones.
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When in Rome…
When in Rome, my friend says pizza is THE thing to eat. When in Rome, you crowd the counter, using your fingers to show how large a slice. When in Rome, you fold the pizza and the olive oil drips down your hand—and that’s a good thing.
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Thai Highs and Lows
In a stretch of Ninth Avenue that could should be called Banghok Kitchen instead of Hell’s Kitchen, Pure Thai Shophouse has developed a devoted following for its canteen atmosphere, authentic value-priced noodle dishes and, reportedly, its interesting snacks. I’m puzzled about the latter; the lunch menu offered the usual satays, curry puffs and spring rolls.
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Mmmmmmm, M’smen!
At the Union Square farmers market, only one of the several hundred vendors and farmers is listed as being from “New York County.” Among the stands from Suffolk, Dutchess and Kings County, Hot Bread Kitchen stands out. A bakery with a mission based in East Harlem, this 4-year-old business not only produces outstanding artisanal breads, it also serves as a job training program for foreign-born and low-income women. And while they are the only truly “local” vendor, their recipes are from world’s away.
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A Tacqueria Takes Me Back
Over 20 years ago, my friend Lorraine and I went to the Yucatán peninsula. While I remember the impressive Mayan ruins of Chichen Itza and Tulum, I mostly remember riding on rickety buses as children sold “cacahuates” (peanuts) and eating surprisingly good food at markets and fly-ridden bus stations. Oh to be young, carefree and in Mexico again! I thought of those days as my dear friend and I sat on stools at the new outpost of Cascabel Taqueria, the counter nicely open to the cool autumnal air and a view of passersby on Broadway.
Photo by Daniel S. Burnstein.
Cascabel is an upscale take on the authentic Mexican taqueria, now ubiquitous in the city. I wasn’t about to pay what Lorraine did for three tacos ($11.75!), but I found great value in the costilla de carne ($6), an enormous rib with succulent fatty beef slathered in cumin and pasilla chile puree. Served on a small aluminum tray, it rested on radish discs and a refreshing yogurt-like lime crème sauce. An ear of elote asado—grilled corn—was also more meal than snack: sweet yellow corn dressed up with Mexican aioli, hot cascabel chile and queso cotija ($5). Clinking “pequeño” glasses of beer ($4/9 oz.), we talked about the realities of middle-aged life—elderly parents, errant children and home renovation.
Cascabel Taqueria
2799 Broadway
(near 108th St.)
212-665-1500
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Contact nancybrandwein@gmail.com
Italian Café Makes My Day
With my kids home from camp for an endless summer, I’ve spent lunchtimes over a hot griddle assembling grilled cheese sandwiches to share between us. I have become expert in my technique—just enough Vermont cheddar, with a squirt of mustard or daub of chutney. I stack six sandwiches, cut them neatly in half, pop them into a warm oven and yell “Luuuuunch.”
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Pinxtos that Pinch Your Senses
Tapas have come to seem like a dining cliché—our love affair with them has brought on a small plate revolution (and a well hidden uptick in the cost of entrées). But when done right, they are a revelation.
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Köfte and Ezme: Love at First Bite
Bi Lokma means “one bite” in Turkish, and it is the newest venue of restaurant owner/cook Orhan Yegen. A strange hybrid of self-serve cafeteria and restaurant, the combo works in Midtown East, where office goers often spend their lunchtimes in nondescript food courts. A few steps above the street and many steps up in quality, Bi Lokma is another product of Yegen’s passion for Turkish food; he’s so passionate, he claims not to care that he makes no money selling it (but don’t get him started on the evils of sharing plates!).
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