Cabernet is Hard Rock
Red wine cornerstone is a superstar
By Josh Perilo
Recently, I talked a little about an obsession I’ve had: Comparing different wine varietals to different genres of popular music. Any critic loves making lists and metaphors, and, even better, lists of metaphors. I started by laying out my thoughts on why I think Merlot could be compared to Pop Rock. This week, I present my second thesis: Cabernet Sauvignon is Hard Rock, or in classic terms, good old-fashioned, straightforward rock ‘n’ roll. Read more
The Underground Gourmet
Book shows the changing face of restaurant food in New York
By Josh Perilo
In 1965, writers Milton Glaser and Jerome Snyder set out on a mission. They began scouring Manhattan to find great meals, in every neighborhood, that could be had for no more than $2. Granted, at the time, that was an easier feat, but $2 was still a relative bargain for an entire meal. Read more
Merlot is Pop Rock
Classic vino is a sugary superstar
By Josh Perilo
“If you had to describe a Merlot to someone who had never had it before,” my friend Bryan challenged, “how would you do it?”
This was the statement that started me thinking about the metaphor that I eventually obsessed over: wine and music. These were, after all, my two greatest loves (after my beautiful wife, of course). The thought went round and round in my head, and I started coming up with some entertaining comparisons. The first and most obvious to me, however, was this:
Merlot is Pop Rock. Read more
Portugal’s ‘Green’ Wine
Vinho Verde is a delicious and light wine for summer
By Josh Perilo
When my friend Shirley returned from her trip to Spain and Portugal, she couldn’t stop talking about it. I was completely intrigued.
“It’s called green wine!” She kept saying, “And they have it everywhere!”
“What’s it like?”
“So light. So refreshing. It’s like mineral water with a kick!” Read more
Antiquated Fixtures of Wine
Wine artifacts and customs from the past
By Josh Perilo
“Her name was Mara Palmer,” instructed Artemus in his genteel Southern drawl, “and she was a Bulgarian Aristocrat.”
“And this thing she had,” I said, “it was like an antenna?”
“It was a swizzle stick. A Champagne swizzle stick. It was made by Dunhill.”
Artemus described again, in detail, the odd contraption that this fascinating Mara (who sounded like a character from a Raymond Chandler novel) would use whenever she drank sparkling wine. A small, silver cylinder encased a set of prongs. When extended, the prongs would be inserted into the glass of Champagne and twirled quickly. Read more
New York Loses a Treasure
Ristorante Primavera was one of a kind
By Josh Perilo
I was heading home from the bodega with a bag of ice cream and beer tucked under my arm when I saw the limo pull up at the end of my block. Out stepped Mayor Bloomberg. Just earlier that day he had won the right to run for a third consecutive term and he was clearly out to celebrate. Read more
Flavorless Wines
Subtle wines that are refreshing and don’t hog Center Stage
By Josh Perilo
Recently, at the restaurant where I serve as wine director, I was clearing out our inventory of old wines and giving away past selections to fellow employees. The head bartender, Jason, took a bottle of a higher end Chardonnay from Oregon called Arcadian “Sleepy Hollow.” It was a full-bodied, rich and buttery wine that was almost a meal by itself. Read more
Patriotic Libations
Some high-quality wines from the original 13 colonies
By Josh Perilo
With the Fourth of July fast approaching, I was given pause to think about the state of our union and the divisiveness that currently seems to hang in the air. While there are always issues being fought over and differences of opinion in this vast country, right now there seems to be more conflict than ever. It is at these times that a holiday like Independence Day holds the most significance. Read more
Look to the Loire
For summer whites, this northwest valley can’t be beat
By Josh Perilo
Summer is fast approaching: Hamptons rentals are being gobbled up, sweaters are being stowed in under-bed containers and white wine is flying off the shelf.
In the area of light summer whites, there are thousands to choose from. However, when I think about my ideal summer white, I almost always turn to one area: France’s Loire Valley. Read more
Winespeak Decoded
Conversing with an oenophile shouldn’t require a translator
By Josh Perilo
“Just tell me how it tastes,” The Doctor said, cutting me off before I launched into my usual exuberant spiel. “And avoid words that have more than three syllables.”
The Doctor was one of our regulars at the wine store. He could be somewhat annoying, in that he only came in for the free tasting every day and never actually purchased anything. You could, however, always rely on him for blunt honesty. If he didn’t like something, he let you know. Read more
