This summer, the Upper East Side lost two of its favorite French bistros, La Goulue on Madison and Payard on Lexington. La Goulue, which had originally been slated to close last April, extended its business until Aug. 26, when it closed after 36 years. The New York Times  reported that one of the owners is “aggressively looking for a new spot within three or four blocks” of La Goulue’s former location. Apparently, the landlord is building extra floors on top of the two-story building, requiring the restaurant to close.

Heavenly Rest Stop serves coffee drinks, beverages, sandwiches, salads and pastries in an area pretty much devoid of any other café options.

Meanwhile, Payard Patisserie and Bistro closed its doors after “untenable rent increases,” according to various blogs and websites. Rent was reportedly slated to go up by as much as 60 percent, forcing the popular pastry stop and gourmet eatery to shut its doors at the beginning of July. The good news? The catering arm of Payard, Tastings, led by Alexandra Payard and Chef Ken Tagima, is still in operation.

With Columbus Day fast approaching, I can’t forget to mention something Italian besides my yellow Vespa—which is how I’m always able to bring you such a comprehensive Shop Girl scoop. How about celebrating Italian heritage at Caravaggio, a newly opened, upscale Italian ristorante in the former Coco Pazzo space, 23 E. 74th St. between Fifth and Madison? House-made garganelli is calling!

Speaking of cafés with European charm to spare, have you checked out the aptly named Heavenly Rest Stop, on Fifth Avenue just across the entrance to Central Park at East 90th Street? It is a dream—and a much-needed place to sit and sip. An annex of the Episcopal Church of the Heavenly Rest, Heavenly Rest Stop (2 E. 90th St.) serves coffee, tea, espresso, hot chocolate, homemade lemonade, sandwiches, salads and pastries seven days a week in an area pretty much devoid of café options. Outside seating offers one of the best spots to while away a pleasant autumn afternoon.

Just a few blocks away, browse the latest in kids prepster wear at the new Crew Cuts store, at 1190 Madison (corner of 87th). A junior spin-off of J Crew, Crew Cuts opened this location in mid-August directly across the street from Food Emporium, making it easier for you to check tomatoes and turtlenecks off your list in one swoop.

While I’m on the subject of prepsters, I must alert you to the fact that you will have to redirect yourself a few blocks when on the hunt for those ultra-WASP-y, yet iconoclastic Stubbs & Wootton loafers. Whether you’re looking for needlepoint fleur-de-lis slippers or black velvet skimmers with a picture of a screw on one toe and the letter “U” on the other (no joke!), the location on Lexington and 74th has closed. Visit the new, even fancier digs at the Carlyle Hotel, 987 Madison Ave., between 76th and 77th.

Once you purchase your loafers with the red devil embroidered on them, be sure to saunter down to Arthur & Co. (828 Lexington at 63rd) to pick out a new purse to match. The store, which opened at the beginning of June, specializes in totes, handbags, clutches and small leather goods—all made right here in New York. Handbags start at a reasonable $108 and can be customized. Who said you can’t get bespoke when you’re broke?

In fact, you may want to stop by the new TD Bank branch at 53rd and Third to withdraw more cash for your spree. The outpost celebrated its opening on Sept. 10 with a free party open to the public.

There’s no point in owning new loafers and a handbag if you aren’t going anywhere good to strut your stuff. Pop into the Upper East Side’s newest—and only—Scottish pub, Jock Tamson’s Bairns, or “JTB,” as many regulars refer to it (1609 Second, between 83rd and 84th). It’s a welcome departure from the ramshackle, frat-house vibe at most of the dingy pubs up and down the avenue (sorry dingy pubs, but you never have champagne, decent wine or clean bathrooms). JTB is just the kind of bar the neighborhood craves—a sleek, handsome and sophisticated pub that doesn’t take itself too seriously, yet seems to buck the “pack ‘em deep and sell ‘em cheap” philosophy of most Second Avenue bars. Brick walls, a tin ceiling and dim lighting create an appealing atmosphere in which to enjoy lovely libations, like Scottish beers on tap and a notable selection of top-shelf scotches, whiskeys and bourbons. “Jock Tamson’s Bairns” is a Northumbrian English and Lowland Scotch term for “John Thompson’s children,” an expression that has come to mean, “we’re all the same under the skin.” A beautiful truth and figurative welcome mat for a place where Upper East Siders, downtowners and B&T’ers can come together to toast to this great city.

There is no longer that odd juxtaposition of two Barnes & Nobles within a few blocks of each other around East 86th Street. The location by the subway on Lexington between 86th and 87th was recently shuttered, while the larger location on 86th between Second and Third prepares to move to a space next to H&M, on the corner of 86th and Lexington. A third tenant-to-be in the same building, Bank of America, is also slated to open soon—adding even more ATM options to the already bank-saturated corner.

Meanwhile, the southwest corner of 86th and Second looks like a ghost town. Gothic Cabinet Craft and Go Sushi have been closed for a couple of months now, leaving that whole corner devoid of retail life. Also, Piazza, the multi-food deli counter and takeaway joint specializing in pizza, gyros, paninis, salads and sandwiches, has relocated a block away. The new Piazza has moved into the old Sassy Sliders spot at 1530 Third Ave., between 86th and 87th. Yep, you read right, I wrote “old” Sassy Sliders spot—the mini burger meister with a cult following has, indeed, closed. No more seasoned curly fries in the neighborhood! My taste buds are crying, but my thighs are smiling.

Three popular women’s clothing boutiques on the Upper East Side have closed. Nellie M., at 1309 Lexington Ave. and the corner of 88th, was a longtime go-to spot for special occasion dresses and trendy designer wear from labels like Nanette Lapore: now closed. Cantaloup, at 1036 Lexington Ave. and 74th, was the toast of the town when it opened a few years back. The boutique, now a thing of the retail past, was credited with bringing uptown brands and clothing styles that were at one time only sold downtown. Preppy proprietor CK Bradley has closed its shop at 146 E. 74th St., between Third and Lexington, and has relocated to Newport, R.I. Devotees desperate for a pastel-striped, ribbon-trimmed fix can still shop online at www.ckbradley.com.

Tracy Stern Salontea offers a number of smartly named blends, including “The Society Hostess.”

For those who need to console themselves over this recent loss of Upper East Side retail, head toward the water to Tracy Stern Salontea, at 501 E. 75th St., between York Avenue and the river. Soothe yourself with a “cuppa” smartly named blends with appealing descriptions like “The Society Hostess” (decaf vanilla-infused China black tea, fully fermented), “The Romantic” (Chur She green tea with jasmine flowers) and “The Lover” (chocolate chai tea blended for seduction). The salon’s adorable orange, hot pink and brown color scheme gives teatime an unexpected mod twist. If Pinkberry, Rice to Riches and a pink iPod had a ménage-a-trois, Tracy Stern SalonTea would be its lovechild.

If tea doesn’t quite do the trick, there’s always booze. Check out Kirit’s Wine & Spirits, which opened at 1705 First Ave. between 87th and 88th in May. A friend of mine, fortunate enough to be their very first customer, was offered fresh baked cookies that the owner’s wife had made and can’t stop raving about how nice the staff is. Champagne and good old-fashioned hospitality? If that doesn’t heal you, nothing will.

Loop of the Loom, on East 87th Street, specializes in an improvisational Japanese weaving technique known as SAORI. Photo by Andrew Schwartz

Fishtail, located in an historic bi-level townhouse (135 E. 62nd St. between Park and Lex), is Chef David Burke’s latest venture. The concept, reminiscent of BLT Fish, allows diners to choose from the more casual, ground-floor oyster bar specializing in late-night dining (think crab and oyster po-boy sliders and clam, bacon and arugula pizza) or in the formal, traditional setting of its second floor dining room, which, true to the restaurant’s name, offers interesting fishtail dishes (monkfish tail “paella,” Maine lobster tail carbonara), as well as whole roasted fish.
Fulton, a new seafood restaurant named after the now-defunct Fulton Fish Market, has opened at 205 E. 75th St. between Second and Third avenues. Owned by Joseph R. Gurerra of Citarella Gourmet Markets, the restaurant is open for lunch, dinner and brunch and cooks up hard-to-find-on-the-Upper East Side classics such as fish and chips and shrimp and grits, as well as unique offerings like the Fulton burger (swordfish, black cod and sea trout) and the Hangtown Fry (eggs, bacon and oysters). Prior to being placed at the helm of Fulton, Chef Jeremy Culver earned his sea legs by cooking for some of New York City’s top restaurants, including Gramercy Café and Park Avenue Café.
Flex Mussels, which has popped up in the former Zócalo space at 174 E. 82nd St. (between Third and Lex), is an import from Prince Edward Island. The former owners of Zócalo, Bobby and Laura Shapiro, reportedly run two restaurants there and decided to collaborate with Flex Mussels to open a location in Manhattan. The concept is simple (fresh PEI mussels), yet complicated (offered in 23 different varieties). Go minimalist with Classic (white wine and garlic), or Provençal (tomato, basil, saffron, orange zest, Pernod, garlic and white wine). Go international with Geisha Girl (sake, green onions, pickled ginger, garlic, bird’s eye pepper) or Dubliner (Guinness, toasted walnuts, caramelized onions). Or travel below the Mason-Dixon line with Southern (bourbon, mustard, roasted corn, country ham, cream) or Acadian (gumbo sauce, shrimp, andouille). Non-mussel options include a lobster roll (finally in the neighborhood!), various kinds of roasted fish and steak frites.
Moving on from seafood to subterranean, two basement-level studios in the neighborhood warrant mention to keep Upper East Siders from succumbing to the humdrum.
Loop of the Loom is a newly opened weaving arts studio at 227 E. 87th St. (between Second and Third avenues) that specializes in a Japanese weaving technique known as SAORI. Short for “Sakaiseikisangyou,” the company that manufactures the SAORI loom, the technique is improvisational weaving done by hand without any designated patterns, which unleashes the creativity of the weaver. The studio offers classes for beginners, pre-advanced students who want to complete a project, as well as after-school classes for the younger set.
Buzz Martial Arts (173 E. 91st St. between Third and Lex) is a basement-level studio that offers classes in Korean martial arts. Head instructor Dennis Buzis not only has a fourth degree black belt in Taekwondo, but studied under the Grandmaster Suh Chong Kang beginning at the age of 5. He has been teaching martial arts since he was in his teens.
After your first martial arts class, you’re sure to be starving. But don’t despair when you walk past what used to be Glendale Bakery on the corner of East 87th and Lexington only to find an empty storefront. The bakery has moved to a new location a few blocks north and east (1370 First Ave. between East 73rd and 74th streets).
Speaking of empty storefronts, the massive one at the corner of East 86th and Lex in the newly built high-rise is about to become occupied. Signs in the windows say that the Swedish retailer H&M will open there this spring, which should create an interesting shopping experience along 86th Street—hotdog and soda at Papaya King, a little light shopping at H&M and back to Papaya King for soft-serve ice cream (a new addition to the Papaya King menu—watch out Mister Softee!).

John Leonard, of Leonard’s Seafood & Prime Meats, is just one Upper East Side shopkeeper who has relocated within the neighborhood. Photo By: Andrew Schwartz

Ave., between 81st and 82nd streets, bringing its custom ski boots, goggles and helmets northward to Yorkville snow bunnies just in time for ski season. Polo Ralph Lauren has opened a temporary store at 1055 Madison Ave. and 80th Street while its location at 888 Madison Ave. gets a facelift. Its renovated flagship is expected to reopen in fall 2009. This month, Crumbs Bakeshop, known for its endless variety of colorful cupcakes, will move a couple of doors up from its current space to a slightly larger storefront at 1379 Third Ave., between 78th and 79th streets. And carnivorous cavern, Leonard’s Seafood & Prime Meats, has just swapped its longtime locale at 1385 Third Ave. for digs at 1437 Second Ave., between 74th and 75th streets. These days, change is definitely the one consistent thing on the Upper East Side—so many new buildings going up, so many tenants moving or swapping shops and many vacant spots soon to be filled. Stay tuned!

There’s been an awful lot of talk lately about buildings “going green.” And at 203 E. 86th St., between Second and Third avenues, there’s a new “green” building like you’ve probably never seen: greenery is literally growing from the façade. The grand opening of Pure Yoga studio has been much anticipated since the Pure Yoga offices opened earlier this year, rather ironically, in the old Krispy Kreme Doughnuts space at 1497 Third Ave.

Pure Yoga Photo By: Andrew Schwartz

(the offices have since moved into the new space on East 86th Street, leaving ye olde Krispy Kreme space vulnerable to doling out artery-clogging treats once again, depending on who moves in next). Pure Yoga, the first U.S. location-and the first outside Asia-offers many varieties of this practice, including yin yoga, vinyasa flow and ashtanga, and it is certain to bring a desperately needed Zen vibe to the stressful, depressing “mall under construction” feeling of East 86th Street.
Right around the corner at 87th and Third, the spot that once housed Bombay Company has been split in two and is now home to both Stride Rite (1542 Third Ave.) and Payless Shoe Source (1538 Third Ave.). Both opened a few weeks ago. But oddly enough, the older Payless store, at 1503 Third Ave.-only two blocks to the south-will stay open for now, giving Upper East Siders double the places from which they can purchase inexpensive footwear.
With the two above shoe stores and the recent conversion of Orva into a giant shoe emporium (where are UES ladies supposed to buy a last-minute pair of fishnets now?), there certainly is no shortage of places to splurge on shoes. But, not counting Madison Avenue, there really aren’t a whole lot of places in the ‘hood to get a great new affordable dress.
Enter Brazilian boutique Beijo, 1474 Third Ave. between 84th and 85th streets, a small store specializing in totally original dresses, tops, bathing suits and bags in various colorful prints and shades with a bossa nova bent. In business for less than a year, it’s become my go-to place for dresses that have a timeless, placeless, logo-free je ne sais quoi. The frocks I’ve purchased there have been worn everywhere from 1920s dances on Governor’s Island to R&B open-mike nights in Red Hook to weddings in Little Italy-and everywhere in between.
Also adding to the list of places to score groovy garb, hippy chic retailer Free People recently popped up in the old La Tour restaurant space, at 1319 Third Ave., between 75th and 76th streets. The store, which opened on July 11, carries an assortment of women’s clothing, heavy on the prints and textures. Think Anthropologie with a younger soul blended with a more mature version of Urban Outfitters. Colorful plastic buttons mounted on scraps of raw cardboard line the walls to create a truly adorable, why-didn’t-I-think-of-that-myself aesthetic, and the dressing rooms are Twiggy-licious with their patchwork curtains and shag rugs. Be sure to try something on just so you can enjoy being cocooned in the funkiness.
On a final note, say good-bye to those familiar pink and white stripes on the awning of Champagne Video at 1416 Third Ave., between 80th and 81st streets. The video store, which had been a neighborhood mainstay since 1985, shut its doors a couple of weeks ago due to a rent increase. But two other locations, at 1577 First Ave. and 82nd Street and 213 W. 79th St. between Amsterdam and Broadway, are still open for business and staying put. So put down your Netflix for an evening, get off your lazy hindquarters and go rent a video in person for a change, will ya?