Best of Manhattan 2024: Food & Drink

BEST NEW RESTAURANT

Le Veau D’or

129 E. 60th St.

646-386-7608

www.lvdnyc.com

How is a restaurant that first opened in 1937 “new”? By closing for five years, then being bought by successful Chefs Lee Hanson and Riad Nasr (Le Rock) who wanted to revive, not reinvent, the UES French dining institution whose English translation means, “The Golden Calf.” As for French vittles, veau means veal, and among the items on the establishment’s prix fixe-only menu are Escalopines De Veal (veal with lemon sauce) and Rognongs De Veau Dijonnaise (veal kidneys in mustard sauce). As for other fricative “v” sound favorites, there’s Artichaud Vinagrette (artichokes), Vicysoissse (cod potato soup) and Coq Au Vin (chicken in red wine sauce, mushrooms, onions and bacon). Steak, lamb and chicken dishes also entice.

Pho Ga Vang

28 Market St.

212-571-6818

www.phogavang.com

Bock bock! That’s the sound of a chicken - and if you think that’s a funny way to praise a restaurant, you haven’t yet been to the new Vietnamese soup powerhouse Pho Ga Vang, where chicken pho reigns supreme, bock bock! You think we kid, that we’re bird brains? The restaurant’s wall decorations are all chicken themed too, including a Rocky parody poster called Cocky—a nod not just to the classic Sylvester Stallone and Carl Weathers boxing movie but to owner Chef Tony Le’s native Philadelphia, where his mom—from whom he learned to cook—has her own Vietnamese joint, Pho Ga Thahn Thahn. The family’s fealty-to-fowl fits the neighborhood’s pre-Chinatown history too, as the Jewish mother’s chicken noodle and matzoh ball soups aren’t far away in spirit. It’s not just a hen house; excellent pork and beef dishes are also available.

Din Tai Fung

1633 Broadway

212-387-9178

www.dintaifungusa.com

Everybody loves dumplings, a truism amply proven by the great success of this Taiwanese chain, which began in 1972 in Taipei. More than 170 international locations later, Din Tai Fung has finally landed in Manhattan and with no other DTF closer than Scottsdale, Arizona, it’s unlikely your friends will act jaded. DTF’s specialty of Xiao Long Bao (soup dumplings) alone has been known to send patrons into spasms of ecstasy; pork is incredible of course, but the chocolate is non pareil. Similarly arousing are spicy wontons with shrimp and kuroabata, garlic string beans, and the Braised Beef Noodle Soup. It’s worth noting that almost without exception, the service at DTF is exceptional. One downside to such superiority is that DTF is busy, so reservations are strongly recommended.

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BEST TACOS

Toloache

166 E. 82nd St.

212-861-4505

www.toloachenyc.com

For something a bit different than “just” a taqueria, Toloache and its chef/owner Julian Medina offers a remarkable array of innovative tacos as part of a broader, haute Mexican menu. Common fare guacamoles, ceviches, soups, quesadillas, “Platos Fuertes” (main course) include surprises like Bacalao Trufado: Miso-tequila glazed black cod, hon shimeji mushrooms and chipotle-black truffle butter. As for the tacos, which all come on hand pressed corn tortillas, how about Langosta (spicy lobster, morita, salsa, avocado), Saudero (beer-braised brisket, avocado, red onions, cilantro, tomatilla salsa, horseradish crema) and Lechon (suckling pig, cactus salad, salsa tatemada, chicarron). Toloache is El Jefe!

Tacombi

377 Amsterdam Ave.

646-822-3383

www.tacombi.com

Oh Tacombi, how we love thee, and not just on two-for-one Taco Tuesday—dine in only but a great deal. As with their friendly rival taqueria Los Tacos No. 1, consistency is key. Unlike Los Tacos, where dining in means standing at a counter, Tacombi is an actual restaurant you can bring your parents and kids to without issue: seats, tables, jovial staff and a clean restroom. Pescatarians will rejoice seeing two fish and one shrimp taco on the menu, others will say “praise the lord” an pass the al pastor or pollo yucateco (free range roasted chicken in spicy recado rojo). Quesadillas and burritas are boss, too. For the meatless, try Vegana (roasted sweet potato, kale and poblano rojas).

Los Tacos No. 1

136 Church St.

212-256-0343

www.lostacosno1.com

You can’t get away from Los Tacos No. 1 and for taco lovers, that’s a wonderful thing. Why? It’s a system that works, providing consistently high-quality Mexican vittles at a reasonable price. If adobada (marinated pork) is the standout, the carne (steak), pollo (chicken) and nopal (cactus) are also praiseworthy. The same fillings are available as quesadillas and mulas (Mexican vernacular for a quesadilla with meat). Because Los Tacos is so popular, lines can be an issue; the staff’s affable discipline keeps things moving. While you’re waiting, note the wall art by renowned muralist Steve “ESPO” Powers. Dining is either stand-up at narrow counter, where you might make a new friend, or take it to go.

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BEST PIZZA

Emmy Squared

1426 3rd Ave.

917-599-9594

www.emmysquaredpizza.com

If not for their devotion to dough excellence, it would seem sacrilegious to recommend Detroit-style pizza in Manhattan. A Gotham—and, lately, national—success story since their 2016 founding in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, the ecstasy of Emmy Squared is marked by bold strokes of originality, along with the discipline to keep things consistent. Among the house specialty pies, dig the Colony (red sauce, ezzo pepperoni, jalapenos, honey) and Good Paulie (carmelized onions, sausage, smoked gouda). Not feeling the pizza passion today? Try the Caesar salad or Chicken Parm sandwich. Locations in Hell’s Kitchen (311 W. 48th St.), the Upper West Side (200 W. 60th St.), and West Village (35 Downing St.) are likewise meritorious.

Motorino

510 Columbus Ave.

917-675-7581

www.motorinopizza.com

What do you do when a local fave becomes an international sensation as well? One answer is to fly to Hong Kong, Dubai and Kuala Lumpur to see what the fuss is about. Another is to sit back, briefly reflect and then head out for pizza—dine in or pick up preferred because it’s more personal. The style Motorino excels in is Neapolitan; it’s all about the dough, baby, which rises to something fluffy, crisp and delectable. An omnivore’s deight, the Amatrciana pie, with tomato sauce, fior di latte mozzarella, sweet Italian sausage, scallions, fresh chiles. For pescatarians, the Cherrystone Clam, a white pie with freshly shucked clams, oreganata butter and fior di latte mozzarella. For the veggie set, salads are unusually well executed.

Arturo’s Coal Oven Pizza

106 W. Houston St.

212-677-3820

www.arturoscoaloven.com

Of course we love the environment too, but there’s something about coal—glorious black carbon—that sets our pizza scarfing hearts aflutter. It’s not just the taste but the tradition, a fact few dough-slingers exemplify more so than Arturo’s, a Greenwich Village mainstay since 1957. Think about it: they were here before Bob Dylan, and nearby Little Italy was teeming with Italians. There are trendier, and some may argue “better,” pizzas (Scarr’s on Orchard Street, John’s of Bleecker Street, others) but of its kind—a red sauce Italian joint Llewlyn Davis could have eaten at— Arturo’s is best.

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BEST BAGELS

Kossar’s

1409 York Ave.

646-461-4523

www.kossars.com

Yes indeed, East Siders, it’s the legend from Grand Street, a geographic and historic straight line north, from the teeming Yiddishkeit tenements of then to the airy Yorkville of today. And pssst - don’t tell Bubbe and Zayde, but I think the Upper East Side might be more delightful. For one, it’s a smidgen bigger, and there’s a clean, open restroom too, an amenity the original location lacks—and oy vey, you know how grandparents (and kids) are about bathrooms. Common to both, the astounding bialys, offered in three varities: onion, garlic, and everything. Tips for the diaspora: buy as many as you can carry home and freeze the rest. Traditionalists might look askance at blueberry bagel but a great pumpernickel balances things out. Also, if you have kids, don’t miss the Challah French toast!

Orwashers

440 Amsterdam Ave.

646-461-7929

www.orwashers.com

If you have friends from, say, outer Brooklyn or outer space who don’t know the glory of Orwashers, it’s alright to reassure them, “bubbe, I promise you, this place is so great it doesn’t need to be a ‘just’ appetizing store!” And if friendly persuasion doesn’t work, trust that that first bite of a bialy, challah, pumpernickel, babka, iced lemon cake or hand filled jelly donut will convince them. But what about the bagels? Let me tell you about the bialy first, as Orwasher’s version features carmelized onion and a sprinkling of poppy seeds—very clever, bubeleh! As for bagels, to quote James Joyce’s Ulysses, “yes I said yes I will Yes.” We’re partial to their perfect poppy and sesame, the ideal cover for what they call the New York Breakfast: a bagel schmeared with dill cream cheese, lox, onion, chives and lemon zest.

Tompkins Square Bagels

23 E. 17th St.

646-978-9088

www.tompkinssquarebagels.com

While Tompkins doesn’t supplant the traditional Jewish bagels and appetizing store like Russ and Daughters, it doesn’t try to. Instead, Gravesend, Brooklyn, native Christopher Pugliese offers a wide-ranging Italian-American vision what a full service, modern bagelry can be. Not that its Jewish roots are ignored—there’s lox and cream cheese a plenty. As for the bagels themselves, there are big, a touch crunchy on the outside and richly chewy on the inside. The staff is exceptionally efficient and friendly so if you see a line don’t fret. It’s a system that works. Among the named sandwiches—a test for any Brooklynite— roots, there’s the Stella, Rocco Sac, the Mosaic Man, the Grieve, the Sullivan, the Odd Couple-loving Murray the Cop: pesto, eggs, roasted peppers and fresh mozzarella.

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BEST VEGAN

Vegan Ginger Root

1164 1st Ave.

646-301-9817

gingerrootvegan1stave.com

Billing themselves as “Pan Asian Vegetarian Specialists,” this unprepossessing Yorkville gem is so quietly exciting, even your meat loving friends will likely be impressed. Besides a wide variety of vegan versions of old Chinese faves (“General Tso Vegan Chicken,” “Orange Vegan Beef”), there are Japanese, Korean and Thai , Singapore soups, bowls, and noodle dishes. Pineapple fried rice with broccoli, dry tofu, avocado and shredded vegan meat is fave, while a fourteen item Dim Sum menu for the mad about dumplings set. More: a bracing house Kimchi, and for beverages, a tough choice between Mango Lassi and Thai Ice coffee. Answer: try both!

Le Botaniste

156 Columbus Ave.

646-998-4605

www.lebotaniste.us

If you’re serious about the totally plant-based, mostly organic lifestyle, Le Botaniste is must try in a fast casual style. Make your own bowls are popular and should quiet even the pickiest vegan. Check out the soup of the day, superseed avocado, veggie balls among the starters. Enticing bows include Tibetan Mama (brown rice, coconut peanut butter curry, steamed greens and ghembe kimchi), Magic Miso Soup (quinoa noodles, broth, green peas, tofu, root vegetables, pea shoots, ginger velvet dressed) and Green Bronx Machine (fusilli pasta, steamed greens, green peas, micro greens, green herbal, supersede mix, fresh herbs).

Spicy Moon

328 E. 6th St.

646-429-8471

www.spicymoonnyc.com

Time was when you thought of eating on East 6th Street between 1st and 2nd Avenues, south Indian was the cuisine, with a dozen plus intriguing but scarcely distinguishable restaurants competing for your daal and dosa dollar. Times and tastes change, though and while a few Indian spots linger, Spicy Moon is making waves of pleasure with its Szechuan-inspired vegan menu. Indeed, there are numerous proud carnivores with no philosophical attachment to veganism who, having eaten at Spicy Moon, came away impressed. If you like things fried and heavily spiced. MaPo Tofu, Dan Dan noodles (with “Beyond meat”), Vegetable Wonton in Chili Oil and Kung Pao Style Cauliflower all astound. Locations in the Bowery, West Village and Chelsea are also recommended.

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BEST WINE BAR

Contento

88 E. 111th St.

646-410-0111

www.contentonyc.com

Just a short walk from the Upper East Side to East Harlem, native and Executive Chef Asia Shabazz has created a remarkable thing in Contento: a superior, Afro-Caribbean influenced menu (mofongo, feijoada, curry goat are among the dinner standouts) that complement a deftly chosen, award-winning wine list, from which one can knock it back by the glass or the bottle, many of which are under $100. Pick hit from their “Wines of Social Impact” section: Viognier, from Kishor Vineyards, of Galilee, Israel, 2021: “Located in a Kibbutz, Kishor is a home for special needs adults. This winery embraces the inclusivity of the special needs community allowing residents to participate in important work and activities related to the vineyard.”

Aldo Sohm Wine Bar

151 W. 51st St.

212-554-1143

www.alsosohnwinebar.com

For those of us who grew up on Manischewitz, to call the world that Aldo Sohm has made a revelation is an understatement. As the Wine Director for renowned French restaurant Le Bernardin and sommelier of his eponymous Wine Bar, the charismatic Austrian is so enthused about the art and craft of wine, one can’t help but take an interest. Indeed, having read Sohm’s 2021 book, Wine Simple: A Totally Approachable Guide from A World-Class Sommelier, this reporter might not drink from a screw-top bottle again. As for his wine bar, it’s everything an international midtown destination should be classy but welcoming, popular but not impossible to get in, and an experience worth the costs. Sommelier fun fact: Sohm is also an avid cyclist, and if you love bicycles or Italian wine, ask him about his Pegoretti.

La Compagnie des Vins Surnaturels

249 Centre St.

212-343-3660

www.compagniedesvinssurnaturels.com

With a name like La Compagnie des Vins Surnaturels, a wine bar better be good—nay, make that great. With locations in Paris and London as well as two in Manhattan, this one, sited directly across from the old police headquarters (a function it served from 1909-1973), is superb, and for some, a likely revelation. A small, often French-influenced menu of small plates—all fine— offers ballast for the imbibing but it’s the old downtown ambience and the humungous wine menu that are the stars. Prices range from reasonable to astronomical, including a 2022 bottle of Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru Domaine Leflaive for $4,675. Before you throw up your pauper hands and run outside for a jug of Gallo, there are numerous bottles under $100 and dozens under $200. A second Flatiron location at 6 West 24th is also recommended.

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BEST COFFEE SHOP

Moka & Co

2841 Broadway

929-666-7002

www.mokanco.com

There’s a famous W.C. Fields routine, the “diner sketch,” from the 1941 movie, Never Give a Sucker an Even Break. When Fields enters the diner, his waitress, a Rubenesque blonde (Jody Gilbert), is leaning on the counter, smoking a cigarette, and reading the Daily Racing Form. When he tries to place an order, however, she either crosses off menu items or brusquely altering them without explanation. “And a cup of mocha java with cream,” says the funnyman. “Milk,” she replies sternly. At Moka & Co. you’ll learn the real meaning of Moka, Mokha, Mocha—it’s all the same thing, transliterated from Arabic— which is a Red Sea port city in Yemen from where Ethiopian mocha beans were shipped. When blended with beans from the Indonesian island Java: voila! Mocha-Java. Owned by Basheer Shahbain, a proud Yemeni, Moka & Co. offers an education in every awesome sip.

Perk Coffee

1867 2nd Ave.

212-686-7375

www.perkcoffee.com

Seems like there aren’t many coffee shops that aren’t also burgeoning chains. That’s not at all a criticism—much of the best coffee in town comes from places with a handful or more of locations. Perk, however, is a bit different. At present, Perk has only two locations: this one up by the Q train at 96th Street (with the Metropolitan Hospital complex and Stanley Isaacs Playground both nearby), and another at 162 East 37th Street in Murray Hill. While this mere duo of Perks may change in the future, today it’s refreshing to know that you are the one they care about. Coffees, teas, pastries and the like are all on point, plus there’s a bathroom and wifi too.

Café Grumpy

20 Stone St.

646-838-9306

www.cafegrumpy.com

A visit historic Stone St. is always worth the trip, and even more so when Café Grumpy is open. Be careful though, it’s easy to miss. The trick is to orient yourself on Broad Street—90 Broad, to be exact, for its this historic 1930 building with a stunning Beaux Arts style lobby, that Café Grumpy resides in—the Stone St. address a side entrance. Grumpy’s own interior no frills but pleasant, with a small amount of seating, no wifi, and no restroom either. While these last two qualities would normally disqualify an establishment from “best of,” Grumpy’s superior coffee—made from Brooklyn-roasted beans—earns it an exception. Old New York fun fact: in 1899, Bayer Pharmaceutical of 40 Stone St. was widely advertised a new, fully legal medicinal product, “Heroin, the sedative for coughs.”

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BEST COCKTAILS

Penrose

1590 2nd Ave.

212-203-2751

www.penrosebar.com

Not to slight the legendary Bemelman’s, but they’re not the only UES cocktail spot worth visiting. For something more casual, or if you’re among a group with mixed gustatoraty desires, Penrose is something like Platonic Ideal superior pub food, an ample bar and inspired, high quality cocktails. The Prince-inspired Purple Rain Spritz combines Ume Plum Liqueur, Apricot, Bitter Bianco and Sparlking Soda; honoring the Sopranos, the Bada Blind blends Clarified Scotch; Cherry Vicario, Amaretto, Lemon, Vanilla and Birch Bitters; while the tantalizing South For The Winter seduces cold Yankees with Mezcal Infused With Cilantro and Toasted Coriander, Reposado Tequila, Chinola Mango, Line, Agave and Tajin. Spicy!

The Hamilton

998 Amsterdam Ave.

646-912-9421

www.thehamiltonuws.com

Though the Hamilton leads with its identity as an American whiskey bar—a fact its ample selections bourbon, rye and scotch attest too-- that same passion spills over into its cocktail section, which includes classics like Manhattan (rye, sweet vermouth, Angostura bitters) and New York Sour (bourbon, lemon, red wine float) in addition to the medicinal Pencillin (blended scotch, lemon, honey, ginger, Bowmore 12 float) and Perfect Storm (Gosling’s rum, all spice, lime juice, Fever Tree ginger beer). On the whiskey side, imbibers would be remiss not to try one of The Hamilton “flights” such as the Noo Yawk, which includes a shot each from Coppersea (New Paltz), Fort Hamilton and Kings County Bourbon, both of Brooklyn.

Dead Rabbit

30 Water St.

917-540-5228

www.thedeadrabbit.com

Though named for one of the legendary late 19th Century downtown Manhattan street gangs, rest assured, you’re in safe hands at the Dead Rabbit—the gangsters operated further uptown, towards the Five Points and Bowery anyway. Back to today Dead Rabbit offers two distinct offerings in one. Downstairs, the Taproom is a modern Irish pub, with all the virtues renowned for their service and some very good food (including all day Irish breakfast), live music and other events. Recommended cocktail, J.P. Donleavy tribute Gingerbread Man with Buffalo Trace Bourbon, Teeling Small Batch Irish Whiskey, Gingerbread Spices, Lyle’s Golden Syrup. Upstairs, the Parlor is where the serious cocktail action is, with a seasonally changing menu to keep things fresh and exciting. One recent special, created to honor a a hospitality colleague in Belfast, Northern Ireland was Emily’s Bar Whisper: Ketel One Vodka, Chamberyzette, Aperol, Acid Coffee Distillate, Vanilla.